Talc or old-fashioned baby powder can be a source of one sanding aid, if you’re into home formulations. Using this product guarantees you a long-lasting finish that dries into a rock hard, beautiful finish. So first confirm the staining process and practice applying your finishing of choice.
But if you look at it from the side when it’s overcast, you can see it. If I where to whip on my last coat what type of rag would you recommend?
It is 72 X 27. But to tell you the truth, I don’t really like adding color to oil finishes.
So I started all over again sanding and removing the blisters, staining, and applying 2 coats of the same varnish (this time with a fine brush) and looked amazing, but AGAIN this morning I found many BLISTERS after the sun heated up the door in the sunny Florida… PLEASE HELP OUT WITH THIS ME BEFORE I LOSE MY NEIGHBOR AND GOOD FRIEND.. Hi Jay. Tack it down with a rag soaked with paint thinner and a little varnish to make a tack cloth. Am I on the right track here and if not can you please recommend not only what finishes to use, but also proportions and number of coats for the best protection from the sun and water exposure. picnic tables for wedding–we’ve been lucky to have 8 tables custom built, each 8 feet long and 32 inches wide, for daughter’s wedding–milled out of 60 year old pine trees, cut down on a friend’s property. Then spray with the can version of the spar urethane. For some reason. Hate to put you on the spot, but tell me exactly how you would put each coat on, dilution level, application method, and whatever else I might need to know.
As easy as it will be to check it periodically, a spot sanding and touch up if necessary should work for at least two if not three years. Thanks for the story link, new to Houzz and it helped to expand my research and add to my idea book. The door looked absolutely beautiful. Would the Man O'war varnish you suggested, how would this compare to a standard conversion varnish? I look forward to your response. So, what to do? Varnish doesn’t rub out quite as well as other harder finishes, but it can be done. I need some advice.
He left the door vertical while applying and didn’t even remove the hinges so it’s obvious to me he didn’t really know what he was doing.
Normally I don’t like to use HVLP with oil-based finishes, especially on vertical surfaces, but if you have a lot of area to cover, its probably your best bet. How should I proceed? The wood is maghony, the stain is Sherwin BAC wiping stain, oil base. Problem is that nail holes were filled with putty that initially matched but turned white as it dried, so now every nail hole is extra obvious, as is the putty that smudged into wood around each hole. So, what I would recommend if you really just want to keep it looking decent, is to use something boiled linseed oil. We plan to use Epifanes varnish as well. Please help with this challenge i am having.
I’ve recently switched to an HVLP system and have been using General Finishes 450 exterior water-based acrylic varnish. I’m afraid that I left the stain on too thick and applied the hellsman over uncured stain. Sand with 320 grit or higher. I emailed MINWAX and they told me not to do it. Am i better off just using a water sealer such as thompsons? Will the sealer be okay if hot things are placed on it once we’re done? Hi there, Wood Whisperer. I have some finishing experience, but never anything exterior. * You can wipe, but it will take you longer as more coats are needed. I was considering to do an epoxy/varnish finish, but think it might be unnecessary.
Apply 2 coats of spar varnish and not have to worry about your door for a while. Perhaps something like Behlens Rock Hard Table Top Varnish. I used an exterior paint and primer in white and the Spar turned them yellow in spots. after I finish , I’d like to try that epifanes varnish, how many coats for exterior redwood boards? footage ( and I didn’t want to tweak out over every square inch). You know what you would do and if you don’t, think about it in relation to all the wood finishing you’ve done and give me your best step-by-step instructions. I believe it took him over a month to achieve the results he was going for, as we were unable to use our garage for that entire time since he was using it as his workspace. I am getting ready to put a finish (spar) on a wood bar in my basement. But you’ll just have to see what you’re dealing with once you start sanding. When I opened it this fall to start using again, it had a hard coat over the top of it and about 4 inches of jell under that.
We make longboard skateboards and have traditionally sprayed them with McCloskey Man-O-War Spar Varnish.
If the paint is chipping, it could cause the varnish to fail pre-maturely. I know people with Boats who have used both (even Minwax Spar) and they say they all last about the same. But sometimes they are still visible since all you’re doing is throwing one coat on top of the other. The only thing I can guess is that 180 allows more stain and/or finish to soak in than after a 220 sanding.
This site is AWESOME! I painting a large fiberglass horse with acrylic paint. In order to keep the wood in good quality and that too for an extended period of time, it is quite important to ensure that you have the best quality exterior varnish in possession. Thanks for clarifying. As soon as it begins to crack or peel, it’s only going to get worse. This is the first Epifanes product I’ve used so I don’t know how it compares to the regular stuff but based on your previous comments I’d say the Rapid Clear version is not near as thick. Sanding between coats is usually good idea. Minwax advises “no” thinning on Helmsman Spar and no tinting in any finishes with stains or dyes. A standard interior varnish will probably be just fine. Both are excellent choices, though one does stand above the other. Keep in mind that you should never sand after the last coat of spar … It’s not in the grain. If it were me, I would probably just buy a can of Epifanes and read/follow the instructions. I am amazed at how fast you respond to these questions. Hey Dave. Good luck! This helps seal up the artwork, and minimizes potential bleed of the first coat of helmsman was with a brush. By no means am I a floor finisher. So if you can, sand back that coat as far as you dare to remove the bubbles and then start wiping on the finish.